2012 - The Lost Coast

Shelter Cove, CA – September 1^st, 2012

     This Labor Day weekend Susan and I drove 250 miles north of the SF Peninsula to explore the Lost Coast of California.  Situated in Mendocino and Humboldt Counties, the Lost Coast is the most undeveloped and remote portion of California’s 840 miles of coastline.  The area was bypassed when the Pacific Coast Highway was built due to the steep terrain; the highway’s detour left behind an untouched slice of beach wilderness accessible only by foot.  We couldn’t turn down the opportunity to backpack on beaches while joined only by countless harbor seals, sea lions, and hopefully the odd black bear!

     Our journey began after work on Friday afternoon as we hit 101 North alongside most of the population of San Francisco.  We battled traffic until we hit Petaluma and called a timeout to enjoy a nice Thai dinner.  An hour later and we were back on the road and cruising.  101 progressed from a major highway near the Bay all of the way down to a two-lane road - a welcome surprise.

     We used our last bar of cell service in Garberville to confirm our 7AM shuttle departure the following morning.  The route from Garberville to Shelter Cove was nothing but steep and deep forest, tall coastal redwoods, and winding roads.  We rolled into the motel close to midnight.  Despite the late hour, we complied with the rules posted throughout the bedroom, bathroom, hallway, porch, and yes, even the closet, warning us that cleaning fish and hosting visitors was strictly forbidden.  As bummed as we were we couldn’t clean fish, we still were brimming with excitement thinking of the long weekend ahead.

     Our alarm rang early as we filled our water bottles and took the last hot shower for a few days.  We parked the car at the Black Sands Beach trailhead and met up with Bill who would drive us to the beginning of the hike at Mattole State Beach.  While loading our gear into his truck, we met two fellow backpackers, Evan and Norma.  Beyond being some of the nicest people we have met, the couple from Napa brought their two dogs along for the journey.  I was particularly taken by their female German Shorthair Pointer who bears a striking resemblance to my dog, Maggie.  It was awesome to see her running around and think of my best childhood friend. 

  
     After another 2-hour drive north through some beautifully steep country on rugged roads, Bill dropped us off at the beginning of the hike near the Mattole River.  From there we would trek 26 miles south along the coast and back to our car.  While the route is as about as straightforward as it gets, there are two roughly four-mile sections of the hike that are impassable at high tide.  Beyond that simple restriction we were able to walk and camp wherever we pleased.

     The first day we enjoyed exploring the abandoned Punta Gorda lighthouse and the tremendous panoramas available from the surrounding cliffs.  Soon after leaving the lighthouse, Susan spotted a head poking out of the water just offshore.   A closer inspection revealed a dozen curious Harbor seals, all keeping a close eye on us.  These seals, and the hundred more we would encounter over the next few days, were our companions along the journey.  On occasion we spotted the seals’ larger cousins, sea lions, lounging about on offshore rocks and swimming around in the kelp.

     Speaking of sea lions, we reached the aptly named Sea Lion Gulch just after noon and during a tide high enough to prohibit us from walking any farther.  Fortunately, we had tons of time and food and decided to enjoy both while taking in the massive views and warm sun. 

    The surface of the beach was remarkably varied, with sand ranging from soft to hard and rocks ranging from pebbles to boulders.  Some sections hosted impressive mounds of driftwood and stands of seaweed along with the occasional remains of various sea and land creatures.  We crossed bear tracks multiple times along the shoreline, but did not have the pleasure of seeing one in the flesh!

     After a grand feast we admired the scenery and enjoyed perfect weather while continuing south.  As 5 o’clock rolled around we found ourselves on the Spanish Flat with huge views of the mountains and ocean.  We found a spot in the meadow just above the ocean where we pitched our tent.  We cooked dinner on the beach and took in a massive sunset over the Pacific before making our way to bed and watching the stars.

 
   The next day was much like the first – perfect.  Perfect weather, perfect terrain, perfect company.  We continued south alongside the rugged coastline and passed a few old cabins along the way.  I was really captivated by these cabins.  Most were fairly small and all were off the grid with ridiculous ocean views backed by 4000ft mountains.  From what I could gather from the locals, about 5,000 people hike the trail annually with almost all of the traffic coming in the summer months.  Beyond these backpackers, the area sees little tourism and the residents are left alone to follow their own individualistic pursuits.  After seeing the area, I can confirm this is a pretty sweet place to go off the grid.  Before this trip I had never really seen a “backcountry” beach house, but now that I have I am definitely wowed by the concept.

     As I daydreamed about living off the grid and Susan about adopting a harbor seal, we eventually arrived at Big Flat.  Big Flat has been made popular by a few journalists writing about the spot in national magazines, much to the chagrin of local surfers.  Access to the picturesque point break is limited; visitors must arrive via foot or small plane.  By the time we arrived in the late afternoon, no one was in the water so we only saw a few wetsuits drying near a tent.  I can only imagine surfing here with a few buddies when the waves are firing… 

     We continued on and eventually made our way to Buck Creek, just before sundown where we secured another great campsite.  Tonight we made our home at the mouth of a creek overlooking the ocean.  Since we were camping within the high-tide zone, we shared the area with a number of other backpackers who were scattered about the canyon above us.  That was not a problem though as we had front row seats to dine beachfront and take in the sunset before climbing into our sleeping bags for the night.

     Our third and final day began much like the second by unzipping our tent and strolling onto the beach.  Unlike the other days though, today we were sad as there were only 6 miles remaining between us and this journey’s end.   Fortunately, the Lost Coast offered up one last surprise to lift our spirits – a sea otter!  As we walked along a sandy expanse, the otter came bounding over the sand in front of us on its way to the ocean.  After watching the otter watch us for a few minutes, we snuck back inland to pump some water and check out his home.  While we enjoyed his creek, the otter would periodically peer at us from over the sand before hurriedly returning to the ocean.  With our bottles full we left the otter to return to home and finished our walk under sunny skies.

     The trip to the Lost Coast was well worth it and we highly recommend it.  Humboldt County is an intriguing place that contrasts nicely with the more urban areas that many associate with the state of California.  We experienced perfect weather and ample privacy despite the holiday weekend.  Our only regret is that we didn’t have another week to continue farther down the coast!  I highly recommend this route to anyone wanting to combine backpacking with the beach.  This undeveloped beach wilderness is stunning and guaranteed to leave an lasting impression on you!