2014 – Rae Lakes Loop

2014 – Rae Lakes Loop

Kings Canyon National Park, CA – October 4-5, 2014

I could barely contain my excitement when Sarah asked me to plan a weekend backpacking trip.  Apparently 6 months was long enough for her to forget the trials and tribulations of the last 22 mile / 6k feet snowshoe extravaganza in the Sierras that ended with a cold sleeping bag instead of a warm meal. 

Our schedules permitted a three day adventure so I scoured maps and blogs to find the right trip.  The 42 mile Rae Lakes Loop in Kings Canyon National Park jumped out as the beauty was undeniable and the crowds limited in the late season.  The weather was the only wildcard: we would not attempt the hike if a large snow fell during the two week period between planning and execution.

As the trip drew closer, our three day time window condensed to two.  The Loop is eminently doable in two days, but the shortened timetable would preclude us from visiting the reportedly stunning Sixty Lakes Basin.  Fortunately no snow fell in the days leading up to our trip and we were all set for a quick shot of backcountry fun.

The drive from my house to the nearest campsite to Road’s End took about 5 hours.  We departed on Friday evening around 6PM.  By 11:30PM we unrolled our sleeping bags and set an alarm for 30 minutes before dawn to ensure we were on our feet by first light.

The morning was brisk as we arrived at the trailhead at 5k feet in elevation.  There we saw a trail runner heading out.  I quietly wondered if she planned to run the Loop and figured I would know in a few hours if we passed her again.  I have read good things about running the loop and was excited to see the terrain for myself.

The Woods Creek trail follows the South Fork of Kings River and Woods Creek for ten miles through the aptly named Paradise Valley.  The Valley was very pretty as we steadily climbed.  We followed a number bear tracks and droppings along the trail and a few deer as we made our way through the fall colors and glistening aspens.  Eventually we reached the intersection of the John Muir Trail where we turned south.  The signs brought back great memories of the summers of 2008 and 2009 when my father and I hiked the JMT.

We continued climbing as the trees disappeared and we surpassed 10k feet in elevation.  We passed multiple lakes as the afternoon continued and saw a few groups of deer alongside the trail.  Late in the day we encountered the trail runner as she worked her way back to the beginning on what she said was her first run greater than 30 miles.  Good for her!

We reached Rae Lakes and inspected the unoccupied and nicely built ranger station around 4PM.  Remarkably we seemed to have the huge lake to ourselves and situated ourselves at a terrific campsite overlooking the lake and surrounded by the towering Painted Lady, Mount Rixford, and Dragon Peaks.  We enjoyed sunset in one of the finer dining rooms in the world.  After dinner we were fast asleep in our bivvies to rest for the next day’s hike back to Road’s End.

Our wakeup alarm broke the frozen silence as we dressed while and began the rest of our two mile walk around the remaining portion of Rae Lake to Glen Pass while the sun rose.  We crested the 12k foot pass and remarked at the 360 degree views of the High Sierra and her many 14k+ peaks to the south.  From Glen Pass we began the 18 mile / 7k feet descent back to our car tracing the route of an ever expanding Bubbs Creek as it dropped through the granite canyons to the valley below.

We reached the car around 3PM to begin our drive back to the Bay Area.  Unfortunately we did not have time to revisit the famous Great Sequoias like we did as children, leaving yet another reason to return soon.  The drive out of the Canyon was a stunning reminder of why I am fortunate to live within striking distance of such commanding and varied natural beauty.

2012 - The Lost Coast

Shelter Cove, CA – September 1^st, 2012

     This Labor Day weekend Susan and I drove 250 miles north of the SF Peninsula to explore the Lost Coast of California.  Situated in Mendocino and Humboldt Counties, the Lost Coast is the most undeveloped and remote portion of California’s 840 miles of coastline.  The area was bypassed when the Pacific Coast Highway was built due to the steep terrain; the highway’s detour left behind an untouched slice of beach wilderness accessible only by foot.  We couldn’t turn down the opportunity to backpack on beaches while joined only by countless harbor seals, sea lions, and hopefully the odd black bear!

     Our journey began after work on Friday afternoon as we hit 101 North alongside most of the population of San Francisco.  We battled traffic until we hit Petaluma and called a timeout to enjoy a nice Thai dinner.  An hour later and we were back on the road and cruising.  101 progressed from a major highway near the Bay all of the way down to a two-lane road - a welcome surprise.

     We used our last bar of cell service in Garberville to confirm our 7AM shuttle departure the following morning.  The route from Garberville to Shelter Cove was nothing but steep and deep forest, tall coastal redwoods, and winding roads.  We rolled into the motel close to midnight.  Despite the late hour, we complied with the rules posted throughout the bedroom, bathroom, hallway, porch, and yes, even the closet, warning us that cleaning fish and hosting visitors was strictly forbidden.  As bummed as we were we couldn’t clean fish, we still were brimming with excitement thinking of the long weekend ahead.

     Our alarm rang early as we filled our water bottles and took the last hot shower for a few days.  We parked the car at the Black Sands Beach trailhead and met up with Bill who would drive us to the beginning of the hike at Mattole State Beach.  While loading our gear into his truck, we met two fellow backpackers, Evan and Norma.  Beyond being some of the nicest people we have met, the couple from Napa brought their two dogs along for the journey.  I was particularly taken by their female German Shorthair Pointer who bears a striking resemblance to my dog, Maggie.  It was awesome to see her running around and think of my best childhood friend. 

  
     After another 2-hour drive north through some beautifully steep country on rugged roads, Bill dropped us off at the beginning of the hike near the Mattole River.  From there we would trek 26 miles south along the coast and back to our car.  While the route is as about as straightforward as it gets, there are two roughly four-mile sections of the hike that are impassable at high tide.  Beyond that simple restriction we were able to walk and camp wherever we pleased.

     The first day we enjoyed exploring the abandoned Punta Gorda lighthouse and the tremendous panoramas available from the surrounding cliffs.  Soon after leaving the lighthouse, Susan spotted a head poking out of the water just offshore.   A closer inspection revealed a dozen curious Harbor seals, all keeping a close eye on us.  These seals, and the hundred more we would encounter over the next few days, were our companions along the journey.  On occasion we spotted the seals’ larger cousins, sea lions, lounging about on offshore rocks and swimming around in the kelp.

     Speaking of sea lions, we reached the aptly named Sea Lion Gulch just after noon and during a tide high enough to prohibit us from walking any farther.  Fortunately, we had tons of time and food and decided to enjoy both while taking in the massive views and warm sun. 

    The surface of the beach was remarkably varied, with sand ranging from soft to hard and rocks ranging from pebbles to boulders.  Some sections hosted impressive mounds of driftwood and stands of seaweed along with the occasional remains of various sea and land creatures.  We crossed bear tracks multiple times along the shoreline, but did not have the pleasure of seeing one in the flesh!

     After a grand feast we admired the scenery and enjoyed perfect weather while continuing south.  As 5 o’clock rolled around we found ourselves on the Spanish Flat with huge views of the mountains and ocean.  We found a spot in the meadow just above the ocean where we pitched our tent.  We cooked dinner on the beach and took in a massive sunset over the Pacific before making our way to bed and watching the stars.

 
   The next day was much like the first – perfect.  Perfect weather, perfect terrain, perfect company.  We continued south alongside the rugged coastline and passed a few old cabins along the way.  I was really captivated by these cabins.  Most were fairly small and all were off the grid with ridiculous ocean views backed by 4000ft mountains.  From what I could gather from the locals, about 5,000 people hike the trail annually with almost all of the traffic coming in the summer months.  Beyond these backpackers, the area sees little tourism and the residents are left alone to follow their own individualistic pursuits.  After seeing the area, I can confirm this is a pretty sweet place to go off the grid.  Before this trip I had never really seen a “backcountry” beach house, but now that I have I am definitely wowed by the concept.

     As I daydreamed about living off the grid and Susan about adopting a harbor seal, we eventually arrived at Big Flat.  Big Flat has been made popular by a few journalists writing about the spot in national magazines, much to the chagrin of local surfers.  Access to the picturesque point break is limited; visitors must arrive via foot or small plane.  By the time we arrived in the late afternoon, no one was in the water so we only saw a few wetsuits drying near a tent.  I can only imagine surfing here with a few buddies when the waves are firing… 

     We continued on and eventually made our way to Buck Creek, just before sundown where we secured another great campsite.  Tonight we made our home at the mouth of a creek overlooking the ocean.  Since we were camping within the high-tide zone, we shared the area with a number of other backpackers who were scattered about the canyon above us.  That was not a problem though as we had front row seats to dine beachfront and take in the sunset before climbing into our sleeping bags for the night.

     Our third and final day began much like the second by unzipping our tent and strolling onto the beach.  Unlike the other days though, today we were sad as there were only 6 miles remaining between us and this journey’s end.   Fortunately, the Lost Coast offered up one last surprise to lift our spirits – a sea otter!  As we walked along a sandy expanse, the otter came bounding over the sand in front of us on its way to the ocean.  After watching the otter watch us for a few minutes, we snuck back inland to pump some water and check out his home.  While we enjoyed his creek, the otter would periodically peer at us from over the sand before hurriedly returning to the ocean.  With our bottles full we left the otter to return to home and finished our walk under sunny skies.

     The trip to the Lost Coast was well worth it and we highly recommend it.  Humboldt County is an intriguing place that contrasts nicely with the more urban areas that many associate with the state of California.  We experienced perfect weather and ample privacy despite the holiday weekend.  Our only regret is that we didn’t have another week to continue farther down the coast!  I highly recommend this route to anyone wanting to combine backpacking with the beach.  This undeveloped beach wilderness is stunning and guaranteed to leave an lasting impression on you!

2012 - Bachelor Party atop Half Dome

Yosemite National Park, CA – Saturday June 16, 2012

  

Two questions arose upon announcing our engagement.  Women asked how the proposal went down while the men wanted to know where the bachelor party would be.  A trip to Yosemite was born with these expectations in mind.

We were fortunate to score a few permits in the Half Dome cable lottery and built the weekend from there.  The five of us were able to slow it down and share an unforgettable 48 hours in the mountains with great friends.  I’ll let a few snaps handle the rest.

2008 - John Muir Trail

John Muir Trail, California; August 2008

The John Muir Trail is the highest trail constructed in the lower 48. The 211 mile trail runs through the Sierra Mountains from the Yosemite Valley south to the summit of Mt Whitney (from the summit there is an additional 11 miles/6,000ft hike to the trailhead at Whitney Portal).

My dad and I set off on our first backpacking trip together last August to experience what many say is the prettiest trail in the United States. While lacking backpacking experience, I have spent a fair amount of my time outdoors and was fairly confident my endurance and enthusiasm would carry me through. The biggest challenges I saw would be carrying a pack (~35lbs fully loaded with food and water), dealing with the high altitude (between 8,000ft – 14,500ft), and adapting to life on the trail. Here are my notes from the journey along with some helpful links for those interested in planning their own adventure.

Day 0; Friday, August 22
The trip began with a flight to Los Angeles after work. After a late arrival and a night in the town of Lancaster we continued north through the Mojave and through the Owens Valley on the way to Lone Pine. Flanked by the Sierras to the West and the Inyo Mountains to the East, the Owens Valley offers a tremendous panorama. The Valley floor sits ~4,000ft elevation surrounded by 14,000+ft peaks. Los Angeles owns the vast majority of the land (to supply the LA aqueduct) resulting in 75 miles of undeveloped valley save for a few towns and highway 395. After dropping our car at the southern terminus at Whitney Portal we rode in a shuttle with a few other hikers north to Yosemite to start our trip. We arrived at Tuolumne Meadows just after the ranger station closed. Luckily we were able to buy some sausage at the general store for our last meal before the trail. We made camp at the backpacker staging area and fell fast asleep as people trickled into the campsite well past midnight.

Day 1; Saturday, August 23
Morning came at 4:30 for me courtesy of jet lag and the altitude. I quickly got up and headed to the ranger station to get in line to pick up our permits. We were scheduled to begin on Sunday but I hoped we’d be able to secure one of the walkup permits to begin a day early. Turns out I was the first in line by a solid 2 hours but it’s better to be safe than sorry. After a conservation lecture from the rangers we quickly returned to our tents to break camp and start off on the trail. Hiking up Lyell Canyon was very pretty and fast. We went through a bunch of different ecosystems on our approach to Donahoe Pass where the real climbing began. Along the way we also met a Kurt, a great guy from the Bay Area who ended up sharing the first half of our trip with us. He coined us the “Philly Boyz” and would prove to be a great friend. We crested the pass just before dark and camped on the opposite side around 10,500ft. Our first night in the backcountry was nothing short of amazing. After dinner while walking to a stream to clean my feet I saw quite a few mule deer and countless starts. It was awesome to be completely in the wilderness and at least a day’s hike from any road.

Day 2; Sunday, August 24
After broken sleep (still getting used to the altitude) we started descending and passed many lakes. Dad and I got separated somewhere around Thousand Island lakes but luckily reunited. The highlight of the afternoon was feet soaking at a picturesque stream. I never really appreciated the simple things like clean feet until this trip. The trail was very dry and dusty leaving which made everything dirty very quickly. After some nice R&R we continued on the trail and tried to camp around a high alpine lake. Unfortunately the water in the lake wasn’t the most appealing so we ate dinner and decided to press on. While tired, the evening hiking was nice on a full stomach and cooler temperatures. We eventually stopped just after 8PM and set up camp using our headlamps. I made my now traditional walk to the nearest stream and washed up before bed. This was a 20 mile / 12.5 hour day for us; our biggest so far. Fortunately my body was holding well save some chafing from the waistband on my pack. Spirits were high as we passed out and capped off another epic day.

Day 3; Monday, August 25
Today we got moving around 8AM and were anxious to hit Red’s Meadow. Red’s is a mule ranch located near Devil’s Postpile National Monument, just outside of Mammoth Lakes, CA. I had read that cheeseburgers, milkshakes, and showers were big hits at Red’s so we practically ran up the trail. We visited the columnar basalt and then made our way to the store. Here we lightened our packs of some extra food and headed to the natural hot spring showers. After a GREAT shower we hit the restaurant for some much needed calories and then ran into Kurt. The three of us decided to take a detour off the JMT to check out the Iva Bell hot springs (a day’s hike away). The hike to the springs was awesome and featured a bunch of slick rock, streams, and trees as we descended into a steep valley. We passed a few kids coming back from the springs (one girl with an awesome wolf dog – need to get one someday) and reached the springs around dark. After dinner we soaked in a natural hot tub at the edge of a valley. Nothing short of perfect.

Day 4; Tuesday, August 26
We awoke and hit the trail. Today was a very tough day with unrelenting climbing on rarely used trail. Unlike other days with massive views, much of today was spent in thick woods. Though my body felt great, midway through the day I started to crack and wonder if all of this hard work was worth it. Before the journey I had pictured easier days and had not realized just how steep and demanding the High Sierras are. Even keeping a quick pace we still hiked around 12 hours a day with the vast majority of that time spent climbing or descending. This is not Central Park! Eventually we intersected the JMT (much to my relief) and finished the day by climbing the Silver Pass around dusk. We hiked down the valley and found Kurt and camped with him. I setup my tent on a ledge, fell asleep admiring the stars, and awoke to AWESOME views. Life doesn’t get any better than this.

Day 5; Wednesday, August 27
Up moving at sunrise due to dehydration. Sleeping high is beautiful but it can be awfully dry and last night was no exception. Today we hit the wall and discussed pulling out for a day to recharge and regroup. So far our trip had been hard work as we were averaging ~17 miles a day. We decided to relax a bit so as not to run a “death march” to the peak of Mt. Whitney and then wonder where our vacation had gone. With this new ethos we enjoyed a more relaxed 15 mile day. We met a cowboy and various other hikers and decided to camp by a cool pond at Rosemarie Meadows to watch tons of trout jumping for mosquitoes. At this point I was hoping for another warm shower and began to get excited for my next one. Despite my longing for a shower, nothing could take away from the gorgeous scenery of a high mountain meadow surrounded by towering granite cliffs.

Day 6; Thursday, August 28
This morning we passed a bunch of people from the Muir Trail Ranch who were riding horses into the backcountry to fish. We passed numerous lakes surrounding each pass and met a bunch of people along the way. At midday we arrived at the Ranch to pick up our resupply and check out the extra food people had left there. I had a field day! Got to eat more than a container of peanut butter which was an amazing treat after days and days of energy bars:) This was the high life. Kurt arrived while we were there and we said goodbye to our friend. We were going to hike out the next day over the Piute Pass and rejoin the JMT further south. After I gorged myself (dad showed a bit more restraint) we hiked to the bottom of Piute Creek and camped in an extremely steep gorge for the night listening to the roar of the Creek.

Day 7; Friday, August 29
We started very early this morning up the rugged trail to the Piute Pass. We heard the hike generally takes two days but we (mostly I) were bent on getting it done in one. The terrain was really cool as the ecosystem was constantly changing. Along the way we saw a lone packer heading the same direction as us. This was an iconic moment and showed just how wild and untouched this land is. Fortunately, through the efforts of many noted conservationists, the High Sierras are largely untouched by humans and have no roads or other development scarring them. On our descent we met a cool couple from Mammoth with three wolf dogs who made quite the impression on us (you’ll have to ask me for this story). After 20 miles or so we hit the trailhead and began to walk towards the highway with our thumbs in the air. After 30 minutes or so luck struck and a group of photographers picked us up and drove us into Bishop where I enjoyed one of the best showers of my life! After showering we hit a Mexican restaurant and capped it all off with milkshakes from Carls Jr. It is amazing how time in the wilderness brings pleasure back to the simple things in life.

Day 8; Saturday, August 30
Labor Day weekend in Bishop CA!! Whoo hoo it was fun. We organized a ride down to Onion Valley just outside of Independence to pick up the trail. We left town around noon (regrettably missing the rodeo which would have been pretty cool) after downing another round of milkshakes. Before long we were at the trailhead staring up at Kearsarge Pass under cool temps, heavy wind, lightening, and rain. We plowed up the pass, completing the 4.7m and 2,700 feet in an hour and 45 minutes. Let’s just say never underestimate the restorative powers of a shower and a milkshake! The rain kept down the dust and our feet remained “clean” as we rejoined the JMT and camped at Vidette Meadows. It was great to be on the trail again as less than 20 hours in “civilization” left me yearning to be in the backcountry.

Day 9; Sunday, August 31
This morning we were up early and moved at a quick pace. It was very windy and I was feeling quite good after our trip to town. We stormed up Forrester Pass following a guy ahead of us who seemed to be moving like the wind. The cyclist in me came out as I announced to my dad I didn’t want to get dropped and really wanted to run him down. After passing countless people I summited right behind the fast guy. Up there we spoke and he said we wore him out. Apparantly he had spent the past few hours looking down at our blue backpacks gaining on him! Anyway a highlight was when I told him my buddy was just a few minutes behind. When my dad surfaced the guy was shocked to see my “buddy” was in fact my dad. He was shocked at my dad’s level of fitness (as am I) and gave us the greatest compliment in my eyes and accused us of being from Boulder, CO (aka the Gore-tex Vortex). Pretty cool. It was even cooler to tell him we’re the Philly Boyz and run on cheesesteaks (thanks Kurt). The pass was incredibly windy; the wind even lifted the hiker’s loaded pack and threw it a few feet. We continued the day in strong fashion and hiked to Crabtree Meadows to set up camp before making our bid for the summit the next day. Again we were aggressive on the miles today but it was quite a bit of fun. The night before Mt. Whitney was both exciting and sad.

Day 10; Monday, September 1
Today was the big day and we were moving by sunrise. The climb to Whitney passes Guitar Lake and a few others. I kept scanning the horizon hoping to see Whitney but it was blocked by other seeming huge mountains. Then the climbing began. And continued. Finally those huge mountains became small mountains. After 6 hours we reached the highest place in the continental US. The amazing part about being on top was looking all of the way down into Lone Pine at 4,000ft. It was a great feeling to reach the top and get to meet the resident marmot cruising for snacks. After a few photos we began the 11m descent to Whitney Portal. This descent was crazy because it just kept going and going (there are 99 switchbacks on one steep stretch alone). Granted we needed to descend over a mile but it was a long way. We were hesitant to camp along the way down as the camps were overcrowded with day hikers who clogged the trails on their way up to the summit. Eventually we made our way down the mountain and to the Whitney Portal store where we capped our journey with two Gatorades and another cheeseburger each. We then picked up our car and drove down to the Carl’s Jr. and ordered up another round of milkshakes. Yum…

Reflections
This was an incredibly rewarding journey that I will remember forever. I am very fortunate to have had the opportunity to complete such a journey with my dad and share the time on the trail with him. Going into this I was not prepared to be on the trail for two weeks without a break. For me it took a few hours off of the trail to make me appreciate just how special it was to be free from the trappings of society and all of the associated stresses. Days on the trail are simple and rewarding. Without the distractions of everyday life people are allowed to focus on the basics like water, food, meeting interesting people, incredible views, and self reflection. While I missed showers and grew tired of filtering my water, once I returned to the modern world I found myself missing these “inconveniences” and wishing to return to the basics.

Logistics
For recommended gear lists/etc please visit some of the links below as the experts know much more than I do. The temperatures at altitude fluctuated considerably. Morning cools dipped into the 20s while during the day in the sun the 90s were not uncommon. Fortunately the Sierras are dry in the summer and precipitation is uncommon.
Our setups were fairly light with base weights around 18lbs (no food/water). My recommendation would be to keep it ultra light and simple. There is nothing worse than a heavy pack full of things you don’t need. For food do not rely strictly on energy bars as they become impossible to stomach after the first day! Also I didn’t need to eat nearly as much as I had initially thought based on my previous triathlon experiences. I had planned for 4,000 calories a day but would probably take that down to 2,500 and just eat more milkshakes whenever near a town!

Helpful links
Elevation profile: http://www.pcta.org/images/elevation_new.jpg
Lightweight philosophy: http://www.backpackinglight.com/
Inspiring adventurer: http://www.andrewskurka.com/