2014 – Rae Lakes Loop

2014 – Rae Lakes Loop

Kings Canyon National Park, CA – October 4-5, 2014

I could barely contain my excitement when Sarah asked me to plan a weekend backpacking trip.  Apparently 6 months was long enough for her to forget the trials and tribulations of the last 22 mile / 6k feet snowshoe extravaganza in the Sierras that ended with a cold sleeping bag instead of a warm meal. 

Our schedules permitted a three day adventure so I scoured maps and blogs to find the right trip.  The 42 mile Rae Lakes Loop in Kings Canyon National Park jumped out as the beauty was undeniable and the crowds limited in the late season.  The weather was the only wildcard: we would not attempt the hike if a large snow fell during the two week period between planning and execution.

As the trip drew closer, our three day time window condensed to two.  The Loop is eminently doable in two days, but the shortened timetable would preclude us from visiting the reportedly stunning Sixty Lakes Basin.  Fortunately no snow fell in the days leading up to our trip and we were all set for a quick shot of backcountry fun.

The drive from my house to the nearest campsite to Road’s End took about 5 hours.  We departed on Friday evening around 6PM.  By 11:30PM we unrolled our sleeping bags and set an alarm for 30 minutes before dawn to ensure we were on our feet by first light.

The morning was brisk as we arrived at the trailhead at 5k feet in elevation.  There we saw a trail runner heading out.  I quietly wondered if she planned to run the Loop and figured I would know in a few hours if we passed her again.  I have read good things about running the loop and was excited to see the terrain for myself.

The Woods Creek trail follows the South Fork of Kings River and Woods Creek for ten miles through the aptly named Paradise Valley.  The Valley was very pretty as we steadily climbed.  We followed a number bear tracks and droppings along the trail and a few deer as we made our way through the fall colors and glistening aspens.  Eventually we reached the intersection of the John Muir Trail where we turned south.  The signs brought back great memories of the summers of 2008 and 2009 when my father and I hiked the JMT.

We continued climbing as the trees disappeared and we surpassed 10k feet in elevation.  We passed multiple lakes as the afternoon continued and saw a few groups of deer alongside the trail.  Late in the day we encountered the trail runner as she worked her way back to the beginning on what she said was her first run greater than 30 miles.  Good for her!

We reached Rae Lakes and inspected the unoccupied and nicely built ranger station around 4PM.  Remarkably we seemed to have the huge lake to ourselves and situated ourselves at a terrific campsite overlooking the lake and surrounded by the towering Painted Lady, Mount Rixford, and Dragon Peaks.  We enjoyed sunset in one of the finer dining rooms in the world.  After dinner we were fast asleep in our bivvies to rest for the next day’s hike back to Road’s End.

Our wakeup alarm broke the frozen silence as we dressed while and began the rest of our two mile walk around the remaining portion of Rae Lake to Glen Pass while the sun rose.  We crested the 12k foot pass and remarked at the 360 degree views of the High Sierra and her many 14k+ peaks to the south.  From Glen Pass we began the 18 mile / 7k feet descent back to our car tracing the route of an ever expanding Bubbs Creek as it dropped through the granite canyons to the valley below.

We reached the car around 3PM to begin our drive back to the Bay Area.  Unfortunately we did not have time to revisit the famous Great Sequoias like we did as children, leaving yet another reason to return soon.  The drive out of the Canyon was a stunning reminder of why I am fortunate to live within striking distance of such commanding and varied natural beauty.